![]() ![]() Though most initiates to Mexican cooking probably will start with a recipe for tomato salsa, I'd encourage this tomatillo one as a first foray. It is the gustatory essence of the country - a gleaming contour of fresh green spiciness, herbal perfume and zest. That explains, I think, why a mouthful of tomatillo salsa transports you straight to Mexico. Yes, more than the "jitomate" or red, ripe tomato to us English speakers. Sophie Coe, my guru when it comes to early Meso-American cooking, in her masterpiece, America's First Cuisines, tells us that the tomatillo (also known in Mexico as "miltomate," "tomate verde," or simply "tomate") was likely the most-consumed "tomatl" (Nahuatl for a general class of plump fruit) in pre-Columbian times.
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